Harbin, ChinaJune 12, 2026 /PRNewswire/ — Recently, the 7th IFSCC International Conference on Cosmetic Technology was successfully held. Fuerjia, a representative brand in the domestic efficacy skincare field, made an appearance at the conference. Dr. Zhang Yexiang, the brand’s R&D Director, was invited to deliver a keynote speech, systematically sharing two core research achievements: multi-omics mechanistic research on Centella asiatica extract and the safe penetration-enhancing technology of cytolipids. He engaged in academic exchanges with cosmetic science experts from multiple countries and technical personnel from leading international beauty companies, showcasing the raw material R&D and application transformation capabilities of Chinese skincare brands to the global industry.
The day after the conference concluded, a delegation led by IFSCC Principal Committee Member, Dr. Remo Campiche, Chair of the 2027 IFSCC Conference in Basel, Switzerland, and Chief Scientist at DSM-Firmenich (Switzerland), visited the Fuerjia Shanghai R&D Center for an on-site tour and guidance. They met with heads of various R&D departments and engaged in in-depth discussions on topics such as the application and future development of omics research in the cosmetics field, and high-quality scientific communication in the cosmetics industry.
The IFSCC (International Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists) is a globally authoritative academic organization in the cosmetics field, founded over 60 years ago, covering 78 countries and 48 member societies. Its International Conference on Cosmetic Technology is hailed within the industry as a high-level academic summit in the cosmetics field, gathering the scientific strength of international leading companies such as L’Oréal and Shiseido, serving as a core platform for the release of cutting-edge beauty technologies and academic discussions worldwide. The two technologies shared by Fuerjia at this conference are key implemented projects of the brand’s R&D center. The related research results were validated through cutting-edge experimental methods including multi-omics, mass spectrometry imaging, and cell biology, supported by complete experimental data, achieving a full-chain closed loop from basic mechanistic research to final skincare product application.
In the specialized research segment on Centella asiatica extract, the Fuerjia team focused on an industry pain point: traditional research only concentrated on a few marker components of Centella asiatica, failing to fully explain the dual synergistic efficacy of its anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effects. The project team adopted a multi-omics research approach combining transcriptomics, proteomics, and metabolomics, along with full-component spectrum analysis, network pharmacology, and mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) visualization technology, to systematically decode the efficacy target mechanisms of the raw material. During the research, the team successfully identified 763 compounds from the Centella asiatica extract, with the top 10 high-content components accounting for 71% of the total composition, primarily comprising terpenoids, polyphenols, flavonoids, and sugars as the core efficacy material basis. Cell model experiments confirmed that Centella asiatica extract can dose-dependently inhibit the release of the sensitizing factor histamine, repair UVA-damaged dermal fibroblast collagen expression, with in vitro soothing and anti-wrinkle test data outperforming mainstream control raw materials on the market.
At the mechanistic level, Fuerjia clarified the dual-action pathways of Centella asiatica: In terms of anti-inflammation, it blocks skin inflammatory responses at multiple levels—including inflammatory pathways, key enzyme activity, and antioxidant capacity—by inhibiting AP-1 transcription factor nuclear translocation, allosterically inhibiting PTGS1/2 cyclooxygenase, and activating the AMPK-Nrf2 pathway to upregulate Nrf2 antioxidant signaling. In terms of anti-aging, it relies on the TGF-β/Smad pathway to upregulate type I/III collagen expression, regulates the PI3K/AKT pathway to initiate cellular DNA damage repair, and activates calcium pathways to accelerate the metabolism and supply of key amino acids required for collagen synthesis, achieving firming and anti-wrinkle effects through a triple-pathway synergy. Simultaneously, using mass spectrometry imaging technology, it was visually verified for the first time that 12 active components of Centella asiatica can penetrate the stratum corneum barrier. Luteolin and morin are enriched in the epidermis for immediate repair, while chlorogenic acid and isochlorogenic acid A penetrate the dermis to regulate deep skin physiology, reaching the deep skin tissue. This fills the domestic research gap in the visualization of multi-component transdermal penetration of Centella asiatica.
Beyond the mechanistic research on natural plant-derived raw materials, another core content of this presentation was Fuerjia’s cytolipid safe penetration-enhancing technology (Cellpolypid®PDRN Fuxinyu). Current mainstream penetration-enhancing technologies in the industry generally have shortcomings: chemical penetration enhancement relies on disrupting stratum corneum lipids to achieve penetration, which can easily irritate sensitive skin; biological penetration enhancement is slow-acting and has significant individual variability; physical penetration enhancement carries risks of skin damage and high usage costs; and traditional liposome encapsulation systems lack stability. Based on the phospholipid bilayer structure of human cell membranes, the Fuerjia R&D team developed a biomimetic homologous penetration-enhancing system. Cytolipids, known as “artificial cell membranes,” possess both hydrophilic phosphorylcholine heads and hydrophobic fatty acid chains. By utilizing a biomimetic fusion mechanism to open lipid channels in the stratum corneum without damaging the skin barrier structure, it achieves a four-in-one effect of penetration enhancement, moisturization, barrier repair, and soothing irritation reduction, overcoming the industry challenge of balancing safety and permeability in traditional penetration-enhancing technologies.
To validate the application value of the technology, Fuerjia used PDRN as a representative active ingredient to complete efficacy validation and transdermal testing: Raman imaging data on 3D artificial skin showed that the relative permeability of PDRN modified with cytolipids increased by 50%, and dermal layer permeability increased by 233%. Cell experiments confirmed that, compared to free PDRN, phospholipid-encapsulated PDRN could increase the expression of the skin barrier key protein FLG by up to 51.76%, significantly inhibit the production of pro-inflammatory factors NO, TNF-α, and the collagen-degrading enzyme MMP1, while simultaneously substantially upregulating type I collagen expression. This completed quantitative efficacy validation across four dimensions: transdermal absorption, barrier repair, anti-inflammation, and anti-aging. Currently, this technology has been industrialized and applied in two mass-produced Fuerjia products: the DNA Sodium Hydra Glow Firming Serum and a facial mask, successfully transitioning cutting-edge laboratory technology into daily skincare products.
To date, Fuerjia holds a total of 39 authorized patents (13 invention patents, 9 utility model patents, and 17 design patents), with one research achievement selected for the IFSCC 2025 TOP10 Outstanding Posters, continuously disseminating domestic skincare scientific research results on international authoritative academic platforms.
Fuerjia has long adhered to the R&D route of “basic scientific research first, data-driven products.” In the future, it will continue to deeply investigate the role of multi-omics analysis in revealing targets and mechanisms for raw material development, as well as the application of biomimetic penetration-enhancing technology. Leveraging an industry-academia-research collaborative model, it will persistently intensify R&D in the two major directions of efficacy raw materials and safe penetration enhancement, continuously showcasing Chinese skincare scientific research results through international platforms like IFSCC, and driving domestic efficacy skincare from ingredient following to independent innovation.